Khadi and Natural Dyeing

Centuries ago, traders from Britain arrived in India, drawn by the richness of the land and its abundant natural resources, as well as its intricate crafts. What began as trade slowly turned into rule, and with it came sweeping changes that altered the fabric of our everyday lives. Among them was the introduction of synthetic fibres and machine-made textiles, which, over time, began to replace the homegrown handspun and handwoven cloth that had once defined India’s textile heritage.

As industrialisation advanced and markets were flooded with factory goods, the traditional weaving communities quietly bore the brunt. Their slow, skilful, and profoundly human work was pushed aside by fast production and imported machinery. The loom, once a symbol of dignity and self-reliance, lost its place in public life. In British India, wearing traditional, handwoven garments was discouraged, sometimes even criminalised, as it stood in contrast to the coloniser’s notions of progress and civility. A new idea of ‘modern’ had taken hold, and it was dressed in imported cloth.

It was in this moment of quiet erosion that Mahatma Gandhi rediscovered the wheel — the humble charkha — and with it, a powerful way to reclaim dignity, autonomy, and resistance. Khadi, the hand-spun and hand-woven cloth, became more than just fabric. It became a movement. A symbol of self-rule. A thread connecting millions across castes, classes, and regions. It was a call to action — to build a nation with one’s own hands, one’s own labour, and one’s own values.

More than seventy years have passed since then, but Khadi remains a relevant choice. Not out of nostalgia, but because the questions it raises remain urgent. How do we live with care? How do we produce without destroying? How do we make space for everyone, especially the unseen hands?

At Janapada Collective, we hold these questions close. Our Khadi is coloured with natural dyes — yellows and greens from pomegranate peels, deep reds from madder roots, blues from indigo leaves, blacks from iron rust, and browns from katha. We also carry forward the tradition of hand block printing, using these same natural colours to tell quiet stories on cloth. Every stage — dyeing, weaving, printing, finishing — is done by hand, using human energy. Nothing is rushed. Nothing is wasted. Everything touches life.

In a world that moves fast and forgets faster, we see Khadi as a gentle reminder. It’s possible to make with care. That dignity can live in the hands of the maker. And that the future need not be synthetic to be modern. Through our work, we are building a small but sincere alternative — rooted in the earth, sustained by people, and made to last.

All Khadi is handloom, but not all handlooms are Khadi.

In a world where terms like ‘Khadi’ and ‘handloom’ are often used loosely and interchangeably, even well-intentioned consumers can be misled. At Janapada Collective, we believe that true sustainability begins with understanding. Khadi isn’t just handloom, it’s handspun and handwoven, a process that’s slower, more intricate, and deeply human. Unlike mill-spun yarn used in the handloom sector, Khadi’s yarn is manually spun, making it naturally uneven, coarser, and uniquely textured—no two pieces are ever alike.

Tradition in Motion: The Making of Khadi

Khadi-craft is slow, thoughtful, rooted in patience and precision. It begins with ginning, where cotton lint is separated from seeds and packed into bales. These bales are unpacked during blowing, then cleaned and aligned into slivers in the carding stage. Drawing combines slivers to ensure uniformity and then gently twists them into long strands with roving. What sets Khadi apart is that these rovings are hand-spun into yarn on the New Model Charkha (NMC), also known as the Ambara Charakha, not in mills. Only yarn spun manually qualifies as true Khadi. At Janapada Khadi, we source this handspun yarn from Badanvalu Khadi Sangha and take it forward. Every step that follows is carried out by our in-house artisans, preserving the integrity of the age-old process.

1) Sizing

Hand-spun cotton hanks are treated with starch and oil to impart stiffness and smoothness, enabling them to withstand the rigours of weaving.

2) Bobbin winding

The sized hanks are wound into bobbins.

3) Warping

Here, yarns from wound bobbins are converted into warp, which is a long set of cotton yarns arranged lengthwise that form vertical threads towards the weaver on the loom.

4) Weft winding

It is a process of winding cotton hanks into pern that goes into the weft, which runs horizontally on the loom.

5) Weaving

Khadi weaving is the quiet rhythm of hand and yarn, where each yarn is passed through the warp by hand, never by machines. Seated in a pit or on a frame loom, the weaver draws the shuttle and sley in harmony, locking each weft with care, creating fabric that holds the grace of human touch in every inch.

6) Natural Dyeing:
At Janapada Khadi, we use leaves, fruits, seeds, and roots to create earthy, natural colours that give the fabric its distinct, rustic character. Blue comes from the Indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria), black from iron rust, yellow from pomegranate peel (Punica granatum), brown from the heartwood of the Kaggali tree (Acacia catechu), and brick red from the roots of the Madder plant (Rubia cordifolia). Scarlet red is achieved using Alizarin, a non-toxic byproduct of coal tar—the only synthetic dye we use, chosen for its safety and tradition. Dyeing each piece of yarn or fabric takes about two to three days, and the entire process is done slowly, by hand.

The following are the key processes of natural dyeing.

A) Scouring

It is a process of treating cotton yarn / woven fabric in hot water with soap oil, and washing soda for a few hours to increase absorption capacity.

B) Mordanting

Scoured yarn or fabric is treated with powdered Myrobalan seeds (Terminalia chebula) or Alum. This process helps to bind the coloring matter to the fiber.

C) Dyeing

Mordanted yarn or fabric is dyed in a dye bath using the respective dyeing materials. It may be a hot or cold process depending on the colours.

D) Washing

Dried colored yarn or fabric is washed to remove excess colour.

People Who Ready the Yarn for Weaving

	Narasimhanna is 75 years old, with the energy and curiosity of someone twenty years younger. He finds joy in Rajkumar songs and a simple meal of vegetable sambar and ragi mudde. He spends his day winding the yarn carefully. A walk through the lanes is enough to bring a smile to his face; that’s where he feels most alive.
	Shantamma, now 60, has been working with quiet dedication for over 20 years. She starts her day with crispy Dosa and ends with listening to Rajkumar songs - a simple joy. Her life is a gentle reminder that consistency, love for the little things, and inner calm can carry us a long way.
	Mahalakshmi, 68, carries with her decades of rich life experience. She enjoys watching Babruvahana, a Rajkumar film, and never says no to puliyogare. Employed and spending joyful moments with her friends, she continues to live each day with the spirit and warmth that working at Janapada has instilled in her.
	After eight years at Janapada, Bhagyamma’s life is gently shifting. She winds handspun yarn. Loves the movie Srinivasa Kalyana, and enjoys preparing obbattu. With steady work and a stable financial situation, there’s a quiet pride and dignity in how things have come together for her.

People Who Bring Colour and Care

	Lokesh loves storybooks, mutton biryani, and painting — but what he's found here goes beyond any hobby. He says this place has changed how he sees life, given him confidence to build a meaningful future, and helped him become part of a purpose that doesn’t harm the planet but builds something beautiful and local.
	Hemant has been part of this journey for the past six months. He enjoys spinning on the charkha and reading. He feels deeply connected to the place and the people, whom he describes as one big family living close to nature. Proud to work with Khadi, he finds joy in both the craft and the conversations it brings.

People Who Thread Life Into Fabric

	Ragini has been weaving for 11 years. She enjoys pulao. It's through weaving that she finds true meaning, where many hands come together to create fabric without harming the air, water, or one another. For her, this is more than work; it's a way of life, without exploitation, and in harmony with the earth.
	Geetha likes singing devotional songs, stitching blouses, a good fish curry, and working with her hands; she brings skill and care to everything she does. She says working with khadi has got her inner calm, helped her manage anger, and given her the strength to face challenges with patience.
	Savita. K. has spent over 20 years shaping a life rooted in freedom and responsibility at Janapada. She finds joy in old Kannada films, homemade pulav, time with children, and long walks. Deeply committed to working without harming the environment, she has learned patience and resilience through her work.
	Savitha. M. feels Janapada as a home filled with joy and learning. She has found the courage to speak up, sees caste barriers fading, and believes that honest work can bring dignity in labour. Her journey is a testament to the fact that being part of a collective can spark both personal growth and social change.
	Rajeek enjoys talking about the collective's work, driving, reading, and, of course, dosa. What draws him most to Janapada is a life without caste divisions, with no gender barriers, where intelligence is valued, and living close to nature feels not just right, but necessary.
	Pavan finds joy in simple things in life. Likes actor Dhruvasaja and prefers Chitranna. He learns life’s lessons better in the school of experience than in any classroom, enjoys playing kabaddi, and values healthy living close to nature. Aware of the effects of excessive mobile use, he has learned to use it wisely.
	Vikas loves trekking and reading. Inspired by the idea of Swaraj, he now understands how mindful physical work can create rural livelihoods without harming the environment. What changed him most is learning to accept his mistakes and grow from them — something he once found hard to do.

People Who Make It All Come Together

	Sharmila Koulagi has been an integral part of our trust, lovingly crafting every quilt that leaves our hands. Her work carries warmth, patience, and the quiet grace of someone deeply connected to her craft. Away from the stitching table, she finds joy in the timeless melodies of old Kannada songs.
	Jayanna has dedicated 38 years of his life to service with quiet joy. A lover of old Kannada cinema, slokas, reading, and cricket, he finds meaning in sharing the organisation's work with others. What brings him the most satisfaction is seeing local people find employment and purpose through the work he’s been part of.

The unsung force that keeps it all together